Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Weddings Galore!

Doing the impossible: I attended four weddings in one day. I could never imagine doing this in the United States, but due to the structure of Malay weddings, this was easily possible.

Typically, only family and close friends of the bride and groom attend the actual wedding ceremony which is held in the morning. Other guests come for the reception and can come and go as they please anytime in the 4-6 hours time span. (For a full overview of a traditional Malaysian wedding, read my "Saying 'I DO' Malay Style" post - http://leslieinmalaysia.blogspot.com/2013/09/saying-i-do-malay-style.html.)

I attended the first three Malay weddings with my student, Liza, and her family. I had spent the previous afternoon helping her family at their restaurant. Since we were all going to the same weddings they next day, they invited me to join them.

The first wedding was for the older brother of two students at my school. Located in the next village, it was new territory for me. There were several tents set up in the road with tables and chairs for the guests. Buffet style food was available and immediately upon arriving, we were asked to eat and enjoy.

Liza and me at the first wedding


The couch where the bride and groom will sit to receive blessings from family and friends.


Unfortunately for us, it was very crowded when we arrived so there was nowhere to sit. We paid our respects to the families and took our leave. All the same, it was a beautiful function.

***

The second wedding was back in Labis. It was for the older brother of another student, one of Liza's friends and a student I have gotten to know quite well. This time, we stayed until the bride and groom arrived, and enjoyed a delicious lunch.

With some of my students. The groom's sister is second from the right.


The arrival of the bride and groom. This part of the ceremony is called "Bersanding." The couple is accompanied by their families and a group of young men playing traditional drums.


As this wedding was held in a hall rather than at the house, the newly-wed couple sat on the stage. Liza and I joined them for a photo!


***

On to the third wedding in a nearby town. This wedding was for the daughter of Liza's father's friend. I was invited to join Liza's family at this wedding even though I did not know the couple. Already full from lunch at the second wedding, we only ate dessert here. We greeted the couple and the families and departed within 30 minutes.

Liza's sister and her friend enjoying their desserts.


The lunch arrangement with the bridal party seated in the front.


The happy couple with their families.


***

Returning to Labis, I had a few hours to relax and complete some work before going to my mentor's house to prepare for the fourth and final wedding of the day. This was an Indian wedding and I was going to wear a sari!

Saris are quite difficult to arrange, so Thilaga, my mentor and friend, helped me. A few days earlier, I went to a student's house to be fitted for the sari blouse. Finding an orange one that fit, I chose a matching orange and maroon colored sari.

Here we are putting on the final accessories.


Ready to go to the wedding!



There are many small ceremonies that take place at Indian weddings. Here, the groom is receiving his toe ring. The toe rings have the same purpose as wedding rings, they show that the person is married.


Here is the hall in which the wedding took place.


Another view of the hall


The bride arrives in her second wedding sari.


Me with two of my students.


With students and family


With the beautiful, happy couple

Monday, September 9, 2013

A Reflection on Head Coverings

The conversation started when I posted a photo album online called “Ramadhan and Raya in Malaysia” in which I included photos of me wearing a hijab, breaking fast with teachers, students, families, and at school, selling and cooking periok kera, playing with fireworks, and chatting with my students on our motorbikes. All very fond memories for me. And all part of my daily life. I often, almost every day, take a step back from my experience and view it from a third person perspective. Without reflection, I go through my day like I’m in the US, taking to friends I’ve always had, engaging in activities I’ve always done, every day learning something new. For me, nothing is different, nothing feels out of place. But then, as I take my step back, I am able to see how much I am blessed, how different my life experiences are from many others’. Here I am, teaching in Malaysia. Every day, I am surrounded by people who desire to learn about me, my country, my language; people who thirst for knowledge though sometimes they are too shy to show it. I am surrounded by people who, despite our clear differences in appearance and background, have brought me into their families as a daughter, a sister, and a role model. Every day, I am surrounded by Muslims, Hindus, Buddhists, Taoists, and Christians; Malays, Indians, and Chinese; boys, girls, women, and men of all ages; Bahasa Malaysia speakers, Tamil speakers, Mandarin or Hokkien speakers, and English as a Second Language speakers; and not ever do I think that one person, for any given reason, is better than another. I am blessed beyond words.



Over the past eight months, I can see how I have grown, how I have learned about myself and the numerous distinct cultures that create the single culture that is Malaysia. How easily I forget that I am different, that my skin is white, that my hair is blonde, that my eyes are blue, that I have a silly accent, or that people constantly question my presence in this small town of Labis. It’s only when I meet new people or wear new cultural clothes, it’s only when other people ask me questions about my background or compliment me on my appearance in Malaysian clothes that I remember: I am indeed different. Not a good or bad different, just different. And I want to be different. After all, that’s who I am. I’m not Malaysian; I’m American. And this fact alone provides a golden opportunity for extensive two-way cultural exchange.

Every day I learn something new about Malaysia and every day I share something new about the United States. Occasionally, I write blogs and post pictures about my experiences so that my friends and family in the United States can also discover something about Malaysia, a place some cannot even find on a map. The pictures and blogs have raised some questions regarding the culture of Malaysia and the Islamic religion that I have been thankful for. For the two-way cultural exchange to be complete, I desire to share my newfound knowledge with my American friends and family.

I am thankful for this dialogue. I am thankful for the discussion that my photos have aroused. I am thankful for the opportunity to teach others about a religion and culture that is often misunderstood. I am thankful for the personal need to try to understand where perceptions, conceptions, and beliefs originate. I am thankful for my open-mindedness. I am blessed.


Here is the conversation regarding my photo album. The names of the individuals have been changed.

Amy I thought the very young girls weren't required to wear the head coverings.........?

Leslie Amy, the very young girls are typically not required to cover. It is often a choice made by the parents of the girls. When the girls reach puberty or enter secondary school, they usually start if they have not already. However, even if they do not cover in public, head scarves are a mandatory part of the primary and secondary school uniforms.

Sarah Mandatory is kind of sad, in my view.

Francis Don't forget, Sarah, you went to a school with a uniform that you had to wear. Same thing, just different.

Sarah And every Friday, we could wear whatever we wanted.

Amy AND, you could go to a different school which did not require a uniform.

Sarah exactly.

Leslie Try to look at it from the Malaysian or Muslim perspectives. I know it's difficult to understand, but this is part of the culture and religion. Malaysia is by definition an Islamic country. The Quran states that the women must cover to protect themselves from sin, avoid tempting the men, and to show respect to Allah. I have met adult Muslim women who don't cover at all. They believe it is not yet their calling. Non-Muslims are not required to wear head scarves and Muslims still do have a choice outside of governmental schools. However, covering their bodies is a symbol of devotion to their God and thus a way of life.

*****

Last weekend, I went to the wedding of a teacher’s younger sister. The bride is 24 years old, and this March, she started wearing the niqaab. Most Malay women wear the tudong which covers the neck and hair. The niqaab goes a step farther and covers the mouth and nose; thus, leaving only the eyes to be seen. I asked the bride about this decision, and she explained to me that she simply felt it was her calling. Covering is a sign of respect toward Allah. The extent of covering cannot truly be forced upon a person; the strength must be found within the person’s being. Asking my fellow teacher about it, she said that even she was surprised when her sister started wearing the niqaab. It made her rethink her pre-conceived notions about the niqaab, knowing well her sister’s social personality and devotion to Allah.





It’s easy to distrust what you cannot see. It’s easy to misunderstand people who and things which are different. It takes strength and desire to uncover the true meaning behind these differences. I have become very used to seeing the tudong; in fact, it is more noticeable to me now when I see a Malay woman’s hair. I admit, however, that I was quite shocked to see the bride wearing a niqaab on the day of her wedding, especially because she was not wearing it when I first met her.

The mother also wears the niqaab in public and has been wearing it for over 20 years. When I arrived at the house though, she wasn’t even wearing a tudong; she had on only an under cap – the hat which is wore under the tudong. So I was also quite surprised when I saw her wearing the niqaab later.

I have given much thought as to why my emotions were so different toward the bride and her mother when I saw them wearing the niqaab. I recognized feelings of confusion and surprise in myself. I questioned why they wear the niqaab; why isn’t the tudong enough for them? Why was I shocked and full of questioning at this added level of covering? After all, I don’t think twice about the tudongs. Perhaps it was good for me to get to know them and their personalities before I saw them fully covered. It helped distill my former perceptions of the niqaab as they were the first niqaab-wearing women with whom I have developed a relationship.

I think for me it has to do with not being able to see expression, of not knowing who is under the niqaab. The eyes alone can be very expressive, but I feel that the full emotion is revealed through the positioning of all of the facial muscles – together they create the whole expressive message. For me, that is all I have ever known. I am not used to only seeing eyes, and thus it was quite difficult for me to understand at first. I am glad I have had this opportunity to further my understanding of head coverings and what they mean to individual women.

I realize where Amy and Sarah are coming from; many Americans are not exposed to Islam and its teachings in the United States. The events of September 11th, 2001 still haunt many people’s thoughts about Muslims and continue to cause individuals to hold misconceptions about the Islam religion as a whole. September 11th greatly affected most, if not all, Americans. Even though the events were 12 years ago, the emotions remain – the misconceptions about Islam and its followers, the belief that most, if not all, Muslims are extremists and hate America. I believe these beliefs stem from a lack of knowledge and a fear of the unknown, or differences. The needed knowledge will not just suddenly appear; it must be sought out and discovered. I strongly believe that efforts, on both large and small scales, must be made to understand this major world religion.



Let’s all take this time to remember that beauty comes in all shapes and sizes. And the most important beauty is internal; it cannot be seen by the naked eye.

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

The Hungry Ghost Festival

Tonight is the last night of the seventh month of the Chinese lunar calendar; the month is known as Ghost Month. During this month every year, the Gates of Hell are opened and all the ghosts are able to roam freely through the worlds of the living and the dead. This is a time for the Chinese to pay their respects to their deceased ancestors and support them in the afterlife. There is a belief that if respects are not paid, it is likely that something bad will happen to the family – an illness, a death, a misfortune, etc. No one wants that to happen.

In Labis, a three-night Hungry Ghost Festival was held in our dataran (town square). Food stalls were set up along the road side selling the standard snacks and drinks one can find almost anywhere. On opposite sides of the large Taoist Temple, two secondary schools’ Chinese Societies had set up little restaurants and were selling food and drinks as a fundraiser. SMK Labis, my school, was one, so I spent several hours of the three evenings chatting with my students when they were not busy with customers.


My students cooking!


My students preparing food for their customers

Every night, there were people burning incense and praying to the God in a makeshift shelter and burning paper money in an enclosed, yet raging, fire. At 8:30pm each night, a live music and dance show began on the stage. The volume was turned to the highest notch so everyone within a kilometer radius could hear the music. The performances were modern and, by many Malaysians’ standards, “too sexy,” as the women were wearing revealing clothing. Every night the performers were the same, and the songs very similar. It was all done in Chinese, so I could not understand it at all, but it was still fascinating to watch with the local Chinese families.

Additionally, on the other side of the square was a hand puppet show. On the second night, I watched with the mother of one of my students who graciously translated the story about a rich man and his interactions with the people in his town and the monk who lived at the temple in the hills. I was told by another student that not many people watch the puppet show because it is supposed to be for the ghosts. I’m not sure if that belief is held by many; regardless, the children sure enjoyed the show!


Dragon prayer sticks


Burning paper money


Festival prayer area

The third night of the festival was the largest night of all. The modern song and dance concert, the puppet show, the paper money burning, the prayers, the secondary school Chinese Society restaurants, and the food stalls continued as usual. However, there were several additions to the Hungry Ghost Festival. For the previous two nights, there were long tables set up near the area for prayers, but they remained empty. On this last night, the tables were filled to the brim with offerings to the ancestors – rice, fruits, roasted pigs, baked foods, coffee, etc. There were also communal offerings, namely two pigs and three goats – skinned and still uncooked – on display at the head of the tables. There was an ongoing auction – a golden pig sold for over RM3,000! – a drawing for bicycles and other items, and group prayers led by Taoist leaders.


The tables of offerings for the ancestors


The auction

After having dinner at my school’s restaurant with one of my teachers, I joined a group of my Lower Form 6 students who were not volunteering. Together, we walked around the festival, and they attempted to answer all of my many questions.


Post-dinner with my teacher and my incredible students

This festival took place halfway through the month. Tonight, the last night of the lunar month, many Chinese families throughout town could be seen giving one last offering of prayers, incense, and paper money to the memory of their ancestors. Tonight, the gate between the two worlds closes once again. Until next year.

Monday, September 2, 2013

Saying "I Do" Malay Style

Several weeks ago, I was invited by a fellow teacher and friend to join her at her sister’s wedding. We would go to Kuala Lumpur on Friday to help with the preparations, the main ceremony would be on Saturday, and then on Sunday we would stay for the reception lunch, before returning to Labis. Let’s go.

*****

“Welcome Leslie! Sorry our house is so messy. I haven’t had the chance to clean it.” says the mother of the bride-to-be as she wipes the sweat that was beading on her forehead. It’s mid-afternoon, the sun is shining bright through the windows of the non-air conditioned house, and people are in high-action mode. It is the day before the wedding and many things remain to be done. “Thank goodness we are catering the food. If not, it would be so much more hectic.” I am told several times by multiple people. “No worries,” I assure the family, “I’m here to help.”

Within a short while after arriving, Hasnul and I are busying ourselves in the kitchen, preparing the tempeh sambal that we’ll eat for dinner. Once finished, I plopped down on the floor with the neighbors to help prepare the door gifts. The “Sam’s Club”-style crackers needed to be transferred to smaller bags and then placed in the gift bags along with an individually wrapped cupcake. In a few short hours, we prepared hundreds, literally hundreds, of gift bags while watching a large variety of television shows on the TV.

When we ran out of crackers, the women’s roles were finished, temporarily. We could relax while the men set up the tents and the ceremony room. Hasnul and I took the opportunity to go to Tasik Biru – Blue Lake – where there would be a Jet Ski Competition that weekend in honor of Independence Day. The competition had not yet started but there were some people out on their jet skis practicing for the races. We then enjoyed delicious Indian naan with curry at a local mamak stall.


Gift bag preparations

*****

Later that evening, a few relatives of the bride-to-be and I sat down to work our arm muscles while chopping pandan leaves into small pieces. Pandan is a green-leaf plant that is often used in cooking and as incense. It has an absolutely lovely smell, especially when finely chopped into potpourri.
In the other room, Shida’s friends were redoing her henna as they enjoyed each other’s company, basking in the bride-to-be’s happiness. Laughter could constantly be heard emanating from the room.


Pandan leaves


The bride-to-be getting her henna redone by her university friends

*****

The next morning came quickly. The tables and chairs were set up outside the house, blocking the road, per usual. The final preparations to the ceremony room were completed. Additional food was prepared for the family, including mee goreng (fried noodles) and karibu (mango salad). The bride-to-be was making the final decisions on her wedding-day make-up, simultaneously trying to stay calm. Before we knew it, the guests started arriving.


Morning food preparations

*****

At 10:00am, the bridegroom and his family arrived. First, the bridegroom’s gifts to his bride were brought inside and placed on the carpet. Breakfast was taken by the wedding guests until the ceremony was ready to begin and everyone took their seats on the floor around the outskirts of the room.
Malaysian wedding ceremonies are very different from wedding ceremonies in the United States. The whole process is completed while sitting on the floor, the bride and groom on separate white daises. The imam leads the ceremony, directing his words toward to the groom. The father of the bride is seated next to the groom and the imam, together the three men forming a triangle. The imam takes his time advising the groom on the do’s and don’t’s of married life. He reminds him of the rights of his new wife and prepares him for this new adventure.

The groom and the father-of-the-bride partake in a long-lasting handshake symbolizing the handing over of the bride from her father’s care to the care of her new husband. The imam brings out the solemnization papers which the groom proceeds to sign, taking a quick glance at his glowing bride. Prayers are said and more advice is given before the newly-wed couple stands and exits the room to go pray for a successful marriage.


The ceremony


The symbolic handshake


Prayer

*****

Upon their return, the bride and groom, smiling from ear to ear, even visible through the burka Shida wears, sit on the pelamin and are immediately bombarded with cameras. Instead of a wedding ring, the bride is given a gold bracelet which the groom clasps on her wrist to the sounds of many camera shutters. It is such a joyful atmosphere; everyone is happy and enjoying themselves. Many photos are taken.


The groom placing the bracelet on the bride's wrist


The happy, young couple


Bride's family photo, plus me

*****

With the formal ceremony over, the guests help themselves to the buffet-style food. Malay weddings are not structured so that everyone must attend the above mentioned ceremony. Rather, the guests are able to come and go as they please, and it is very common that guests do not come for the solemnization but just for the food and to pay their respects to the couple. Our ceremony started at 10:00am and guests kept arriving until well after the stated end time of 3:00pm.


Wedding lunch buffet


Hasnul (left) and her sister giving the wedding gifts to the guests and children

*****

The next day, the groom’s family hosted the reception. Malay weddings have two parts – the official ceremony is hosted by the bride’s family in her hometown, and then a smaller function with the groom’s family is conducted in his hometown. Since, in this case, the bride and groom were both from Kuala Lumpur, they were able to have the two events on back-to-back days. It is common, however, for the second ceremony to be held a week or two after the solemnization. Another delicious meal surrounded by friends and family, more photos of the happy couple and their families, and additional door gifts were taken.


Cutting the cake


All smiles


Sister love

It was a glorious wedding for a gorgeous couple. I am honored to have been a part of it and to have been accepted as an honorary member of the bride’s family for the weekend. May Shida and Hilmi have a long, successful, and harmonious marriage.


Me and Hasnul