Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Journey to the End of the World

25 January 2014

A break from the classroom, we head out for a day of sight-seeing and adventure.

Passing the CIQ (Checkpoint to enter Singapore), the Singapore-Johor Causeway bridge, the State Mosque, and Danga Bay, we make our first stop at the Sultan Ismail Building.





This is the new legislative center in Johor, opened in 2009. The architecture was stunning, and it was surrounded by a lush green garden.





Heading out of the district, we journey to the end of Asia, literally.

Tanjung Piai, one of the National Parks in Johor, is the location of the southernmost tip of mainland Asia.





We take the boardwalk straight and end up at the jetty. Wait a second...this isn't right! But it sure is beautiful!





Try number two. This time in the right direction. As Leslie (there are two of us this year!!) and I were watching a lizard, we were approached by a group of Malaysians who asked to take a picture with us. Certainly, but only if we get one on my camera as well!



After a short pleasant walk through the mangrove forest, we reach the land's end. Congratulations! We did it!




Back on the bus, we return to New York (Hotel). With some satay



and some more monkeying around,



a fabulous day is completed.

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Malaysia: Round Two

After a successful year teaching at SMK Labis in 2013, I decided to return for a second year. For some time, I debated whether I wanted to stay in Labis or move to a new location in Malaysia to experience a different part of the culture. Ultimately, I believe that by staying in Labis, at SMK Labis, I will be able to have a greater impact on my students’ lives and thus my students will benefit more. It took nearly two months last year for me to feel comfortable at my school in terms of understanding the structure and the hierarchy and forming relationships with my students and colleagues. This year, I won’t have to repeat all that. Most of the students, teachers, and staff at the school will be the same and thus the relationships have already been forged. Additionally, I already know how to navigate the system and what procedures I must follow to execute my activities.


So much luggage! That's what happens when you move halfway around the world for a year!


After nearly three months away from Labis, I’m ready to return. I spent one month traveling, one month at home in North Carolina, and now, this last month, I have been back in Malaysia at orientation. Two and a half weeks were spent in Kuala Lumpur, the capital, meeting important officials, completing TEFL and cultural training, learning the ins and outs of Malaysian culture, and making new friends. Happily, I was able to spend some time with many of my Malaysian friends who live in the KL area or happened to be passing through while I was there.


My first ever Malaysian friends - reunited again in KL


Stephanie and Caleb - More Ultimate friends!


Team AUR - After Saturday morning training

Excitingly, many of the new ETAs play Ultimate Frisbee. Unfortunately, there’s not really any space to play near our hotel. Fortunately, however, I was able to organize pick-up with two of my KL friends. They found a field and brought some additional players, while fourteen ETAs, including myself, trekked across town to play in the rain. Needless to say, it was awesome.


ETA and Badgers Pick-up - Play through the rain!

One of the most exciting moments in KL was seeing my friend from university! Lily was in Malaysia for a three week graduate school program and was traveling to Johor Bahru, Malacca, Kuala Lumpur, and Kuching. Although she was only in KL for three nights, we were able to meet up one evening for dinner. I took her to my favorite burger joint, MyBurgerLab, which was started a few years ago by a couple of my Ultimate friends. She was blown away by how delicious the burgers were (even their portabella burger is divine), not to mention their fries which are seasoned with rosemary and thyme! Also, they have recently expanded and now offer brownies (chili, green tea, peanut butter, chocolate, strawberry, a flavor for everyone) and coffee. Just my little plug for my friend’s business. Though really, if in KL, you should go.


In North Carolina? NO! In Kuala Lumpur!!


UNC-CH crew: United and Reunited in Malaysia


Senior ETAs and Coordinators' Dinner


Johor State Dinner


Johor State Dinner


After the KL orientation, the 2014 ETA cohort split into their six states and headed off to the state capitals. Back down to Johor Bahru and the New York Hotel it is for me! The state level orientations act as an extension of the national level orientation with more information specific to each state. We have met with important officials in the Johor State Education Department with whom we will be working closely throughout the year. The PPD, or district level English Language Officers, also attend part of the orientation. Everyone is super excited to meet their mentors who arrive on the fourth day of orientation. Once the mentors are here, we will delve more into discussions about the ETAs’ roles at the schools, our specific school schedules, our activities and ideas for the year ahead, and all that jazz.


Goodbye KL and friends departing to other states/staying in KL


Happy to be back at the New York Hotel in JB (Tall box building in the background)

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Five Days Early

6 December 2013
Cary, North Carolina

I’ll be home on 11 December at 3:45pm. Or so I told my parents.

In actuality, I arrived on 6 December at 4:55pm.

I wanted to surprise my parents by arriving home early. And surprise them I did. My second family fetched me from the airport and filmed my arrival at the house. My neighbor helped by ensuring my parents would be home that evening. I couldn’t have done this without them.





My heart was pounding as we got closer to my house. We turned down the street and OH NO! My mom was walking our dog and was presently at our neighbor’s house! I quickly ducked down below the car window and we drove up the street past my house to wait. I just couldn’t show up at the house until Mom returned home!

A few minutes went by and we decided it was time for the big surprise.

Genevieve, my dog, was sitting on the front porch as the weather was beautiful that evening. She started barking as we reached the top of the driveway drawing my mom out of the house to see what was happening. She sees me as I’m walking down the driveway and her facial expression was one of disbelief and confusion. She was staring at me, not saying a word, not even making a sound. After several long seconds I casually say “Surprise” and we embrace at the top of the stairs. Hardly a word spoken.



Opening the front door, Mom shouts inside to my dad, “Bill, we have company!” My father comes to the door. Not one for many words, he looks just as surprised as my mom did. We embrace as the dog paces the porch trying to be in the middle of the excitement. My favorite phrase Dad said was, “This is… strange.” One happy family. If only my sister was there to be with us.



After dinner, Mom and I drove to my grandmother’s house to surprise her. I knocked on the door and waited for her to answer it. Of the three, Nannie was the most animated upon seeing me. “STOP!” she says, “YOU!” Disbelief and excitement. Ninety six years young and as sprite as ever.

It felt incredible to be home, back in the town where I grew up with the people I love the most. A wonderful evening and a great way to start my four week visit in North Carolina.



A video of my family’s reactions can be seen at this link: http://youtu.be/Zv45lo7haJI

Friday, January 10, 2014

New Friends in Unexpected Places

20 November 2013
Kandy, Sri Lanka

I woke up with the sun. The morning haze shrouded the hills, blocking the colors of the sunrise. As the sun broke the horizon, at the base of the hills, unseen by my eyes, the haze slowly started drifting away. I decided to take a walk, away from town, into the hills. I wanted to reach the top of a hill to see what remained of the sunrise, the power of the sun scaring away the last of the haze.

Mothers and fathers were walking their children to school. A smile and a greeting sent waves of happiness through the faces of the locals I passed. The sound of flowing water got stronger. Alas, at the end of the road, a waterfall, quickly flowing down the hill into a stream. I took the paved stairway along the water a short distance until it ended in the stream. I passed a small house. An elderly woman had exited the house and was standing by the entrance. I smiled and greeted her “good morning”. In return, I was greeted the same. A stern face tensed certain muscles to create an image of contentment and appreciation.

A woman brushed her teeth outside her house upside the waterfall. We looked at each other wondering what the other must be thinking. I waved. She waved. It is enough.

Walking back down the road, I reached a staircase. A short distance later I arrived at a temple. Buddha sat behind the fogged glass. Small flowers had been offered on green leaves. Vibrant colors. Peaceful. A small striped squirrel ran along a tree branch. A blue and black bird, a kingfisher, rested on the rooftop. An old man appeared. I believe I must go to leave him in peace. But he began to speak in broken English. A temple, he says. It’s Buddha. We began to chat, using simple English, letting the silence between our questions sink in. He told me he used to be a runner. He went to New Zealand to race in 1950. He is happy. He invited me to his house, and I followed him, continuing up the flight of stairs past the temple. I am impressed by his stamina, the ease with which he climbs the stairs. A body well practiced. Fit even in old age. He walked with his hands clasped behind his back, his back hunched, and yet he appeared to glide up the stairs.

We reached his house. Removing our shoes, he invited me inside. A girl, his granddaughter, was doing her hair. Her mother was helping. It’s almost time for school. I greeted them and took my seat on the couch. The grandmother sat across from me. They spoke in Singha, and I smiled.

Vincent and his wife have been married for 50 years. They are 75 and 73, respectively. They have three daughters. One lives with them. Nayana has two children – a 9 year old daughter whom she just took to school and a 15 year old son who is staying home sick. He woke up and stood at the corner of the doorway, half hiding. Only Vincent speaks decent English. His daughter and grandson know minimal words. We sat, sometimes speaking, sometimes in silence.

Vincent stood and left the room. He momentarily returned with a package. An Australian man also visited his home. Later, he mailed the photos he took. Photos of Vincent and his family, the landscape, the hills, even a few pictures of the Australian’s family – his daughter’s wedding. “He came here,” Vicent repeats, visibly proud.

I took a sip of my milk tea. I’ll take a photo before I leave and I’ll mail it to them also, I think to myself. I’ll include a picture of my family as well. I’ll return their kindness.

We’re a poor family, she says. Poultry is expensive. We usually just eat rice with vegetables. We have lived in this house for 32 years. We are from Kandy. This place is called Nagasstenna. For poor people.

Vincent and I are left alone. I commented on a wood hanging of three elephants, trying to ask if he had seen the elephants. Instead, he asked if I wanted it. His daughter enters a side room and returns with a small poster of an elephant. For you, Vincent says. It’s a political advertisement. 2013. Candidate 32. It is written in Singha and I cannot understand. I thank them profusely. Nayana brings a bag and gingerly places the poster inside.

We entered the kitchen. The grandmother is cutting green vegetables for their lunch. The mother is preparing milk tea for her son. He took the mug and sipped slowly, leaning against the stone stove.

Come. I followed Vincent out the side door. There is an open bedroom. He scurried to the next door, opening it with a smile across his face. This is my room. This is my room, he repeats. He chuckles. The upstairs is not finished. Barefoot and outside, a back courtyard. We stepped over slightly muddy ground. I’m cautious not to get my feet too dirty. I didn’t wish to track dirt into their clean house. Vincent opened a gate. I stepped around it and followed his agile feet up a flight of stairs. There is a balcony. We stood, looking out over the hills. We could not see the waterfall. The bright, hot sun beat down on our faces. It’s a hot day, he says. I felt the burning power of the sun on my skin. We didn’t stay long. We took it all in, admiring how our morning paths brought us together as we glanced down at the temple where we met.

There’s one more room. Nayana gave me her slippers. We crossed the courtyard. Inside, there was a Christmas tree. Vincent is proud. Next month is Christmas, and her birthday, he says looking fondly at his daughter. A Christmas baby.

I wiped my feet on the mat, trying to remove any grains that remained before re-entering the kitchen. A photo album was brought out, spurred by my admiring Nayana’s wedding photo I passed her husband in the street. He greeted me ‘good morning’ I am reminded. He was in the army, now on pension. She is proud. They are happy. She was a beautiful bride. He is serious, wearing his army uniform. His brow is furrowed, his mouth closed. In his tuxedo, he smiles. There is a gap between his front teeth. He looks down lovingly at his new wife, his left hand resting on her shoulder. She looks up at him. Her eyes glisten. They are in love.

The moments passed slowly and yet too quickly. It was time for me to go. When you come again, you come here. You remember the way. Yes, I will mail you the pictures. Thank you. You come again, you stay here. You are always welcome. God bless you. And God bless you as well. Thank you. Stuti.

I gave Vincent a friendship bracelet I had in my bag. He gave it to his grandson who examined it. The color matches his shirt. Thank you. No, thank you.

Vincent escorted me down the hill, back to my hotel. Today, they are happy. We are happy, he says. Today, I am also happy. What an incredible and unexpected experience.

At the Temple


Vincent and his family


Me with Vincent and his family

Monday, January 6, 2014

Adventures in Mulu National Park

5-8 November 2013

After my Fulbright grant ended at the beginning of November, I spent the next several weeks traveling. One of the highlights was going to Mulu National Park in Sarawak on Easy Malaysia. I traveled with another ETA and we met a new friend who traveled with us for several days in the Park. Here's a photo blog of our adventures.

Initially, Brian and I flew into Kota Kinabalu, spending a day exploring the city and the markets and watching a lovely sunset over the water.


After flying to Mulu National Park and settling in at our park hostel, we ate lunch at a family run restaurant on the river. The son, after being incredibly shy at first, quickly warmed up to us. He would run down the hall and playfully hit his head on the wall, fall down, then turn around to make sure we were watching.


Once our stomachs were fully satisfied, we went on a hike to the Deer Cave. This is one of the largest caves in the world. Every evening, around dusk, there is a four million bat exodus that is truly remarkable to watch.


Along the way, we saw many interesting fauna and flora.




Deer Cave is very expansive. Since there are so many bats, the ground is covered in guano. Let's just say I'm glad I was wearing a hat!


Abe Lincoln can be found in the cave too. The bats greet him as they exit the cave every night.


See you later bats! Have a good breakfast!


In the evening, we went on a Night Trek finding many unique critters, including this stick insect...


and this fuzzy caterpillar.


The next day, we began our three day, two night adventure to the Pinnacles. Hopping in a little motor boat, we rode several kilometers up the river...


stopping at a Handicraft Village to learn about the local indigenous groups and to see all the crafts they make.


We also stopped at a few more caves that were just as impressive as the ones the day before. (This is the King's Chamber in the Clearwater Cave.)


Arriving at the end of the boat ride, we were dropped off at the start of the trail. Just follow the signs, it's clearly marked. And the boat left. Brian, Dougal, and I successfully made the 9km hike through the rainforest alone, carrying all the supplies and food we needed for the next couple days.


Two hours later, we arrived at Base Camp Five and met the other hikers with whom we would trek to the Pinnacles the following day. We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the scenery, cooking dinner, and playing card games with our guide.


The Pinnacles is a very chalenging trek. Although it is only 2.4km in distance, the increase in elevation is 1.2km.


Of the seven people who started the trek, we were the only three to make it all the way to the top.


Finally, after climbing 17 ladders and walking along several boards, we reached the Pinnacles, limestone karsts jutting out of the surrounding hills.


Well worth the effort!


There were many plants and animals at the top as well.
Pitcher plants, also known as Monkey Pots


Lizards who jumped from tree to tree


And even sleeping humans!


Back at camp, we took a group photo to remember this momentous occasion.


The next morning, we once again made the 9km trek back to the boat,


crossing two swinging bridges


wading across swollen rivers


and enjoying the sounds of the rainforest around us.


But at some point, all wonderful holidays must come to an end


Sometimes, you just have to accept it and walk on to the next great adventure.