The Hungry Ghost Festival

Tonight is the last night of the seventh month of the Chinese lunar calendar; the month is known as Ghost Month. During this month every year, the Gates of Hell are opened and all the ghosts are able to roam freely through the worlds of the living and the dead. This is a time for the Chinese to pay their respects to their deceased ancestors and support them in the afterlife. There is a belief that if respects are not paid, it is likely that something bad will happen to the family – an illness, a death, a misfortune, etc. No one wants that to happen.

In Labis, a three-night Hungry Ghost Festival was held in our dataran (town square). Food stalls were set up along the road side selling the standard snacks and drinks one can find almost anywhere. On opposite sides of the large Taoist Temple, two secondary schools’ Chinese Societies had set up little restaurants and were selling food and drinks as a fundraiser. SMK Labis, my school, was one, so I spent several hours of the three evenings chatting with my students when they were not busy with customers.


My students cooking!


My students preparing food for their customers

Every night, there were people burning incense and praying to the God in a makeshift shelter and burning paper money in an enclosed, yet raging, fire. At 8:30pm each night, a live music and dance show began on the stage. The volume was turned to the highest notch so everyone within a kilometer radius could hear the music. The performances were modern and, by many Malaysians’ standards, “too sexy,” as the women were wearing revealing clothing. Every night the performers were the same, and the songs very similar. It was all done in Chinese, so I could not understand it at all, but it was still fascinating to watch with the local Chinese families.

Additionally, on the other side of the square was a hand puppet show. On the second night, I watched with the mother of one of my students who graciously translated the story about a rich man and his interactions with the people in his town and the monk who lived at the temple in the hills. I was told by another student that not many people watch the puppet show because it is supposed to be for the ghosts. I’m not sure if that belief is held by many; regardless, the children sure enjoyed the show!


Dragon prayer sticks


Burning paper money


Festival prayer area

The third night of the festival was the largest night of all. The modern song and dance concert, the puppet show, the paper money burning, the prayers, the secondary school Chinese Society restaurants, and the food stalls continued as usual. However, there were several additions to the Hungry Ghost Festival. For the previous two nights, there were long tables set up near the area for prayers, but they remained empty. On this last night, the tables were filled to the brim with offerings to the ancestors – rice, fruits, roasted pigs, baked foods, coffee, etc. There were also communal offerings, namely two pigs and three goats – skinned and still uncooked – on display at the head of the tables. There was an ongoing auction – a golden pig sold for over RM3,000! – a drawing for bicycles and other items, and group prayers led by Taoist leaders.


The tables of offerings for the ancestors


The auction

After having dinner at my school’s restaurant with one of my teachers, I joined a group of my Lower Form 6 students who were not volunteering. Together, we walked around the festival, and they attempted to answer all of my many questions.


Post-dinner with my teacher and my incredible students

This festival took place halfway through the month. Tonight, the last night of the lunar month, many Chinese families throughout town could be seen giving one last offering of prayers, incense, and paper money to the memory of their ancestors. Tonight, the gate between the two worlds closes once again. Until next year.

Saying "I Do" Malay Style

Several weeks ago, I was invited by a fellow teacher and friend to join her at her sister’s wedding. We would go to Kuala Lumpur on Friday to help with the preparations, the main ceremony would be on Saturday, and then on Sunday we would stay for the reception lunch, before returning to Labis. Let’s go.

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“Welcome Leslie! Sorry our house is so messy. I haven’t had the chance to clean it.” says the mother of the bride-to-be as she wipes the sweat that was beading on her forehead. It’s mid-afternoon, the sun is shining bright through the windows of the non-air conditioned house, and people are in high-action mode. It is the day before the wedding and many things remain to be done. “Thank goodness we are catering the food. If not, it would be so much more hectic.” I am told several times by multiple people. “No worries,” I assure the family, “I’m here to help.”

Within a short while after arriving, Hasnul and I are busying ourselves in the kitchen, preparing the tempeh sambal that we’ll eat for dinner. Once finished, I plopped down on the floor with the neighbors to help prepare the door gifts. The “Sam’s Club”-style crackers needed to be transferred to smaller bags and then placed in the gift bags along with an individually wrapped cupcake. In a few short hours, we prepared hundreds, literally hundreds, of gift bags while watching a large variety of television shows on the TV.

When we ran out of crackers, the women’s roles were finished, temporarily. We could relax while the men set up the tents and the ceremony room. Hasnul and I took the opportunity to go to Tasik Biru – Blue Lake – where there would be a Jet Ski Competition that weekend in honor of Independence Day. The competition had not yet started but there were some people out on their jet skis practicing for the races. We then enjoyed delicious Indian naan with curry at a local mamak stall.


Gift bag preparations

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Later that evening, a few relatives of the bride-to-be and I sat down to work our arm muscles while chopping pandan leaves into small pieces. Pandan is a green-leaf plant that is often used in cooking and as incense. It has an absolutely lovely smell, especially when finely chopped into potpourri.
In the other room, Shida’s friends were redoing her henna as they enjoyed each other’s company, basking in the bride-to-be’s happiness. Laughter could constantly be heard emanating from the room.


Pandan leaves


The bride-to-be getting her henna redone by her university friends

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The next morning came quickly. The tables and chairs were set up outside the house, blocking the road, per usual. The final preparations to the ceremony room were completed. Additional food was prepared for the family, including mee goreng (fried noodles) and karibu (mango salad). The bride-to-be was making the final decisions on her wedding-day make-up, simultaneously trying to stay calm. Before we knew it, the guests started arriving.


Morning food preparations

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At 10:00am, the bridegroom and his family arrived. First, the bridegroom’s gifts to his bride were brought inside and placed on the carpet. Breakfast was taken by the wedding guests until the ceremony was ready to begin and everyone took their seats on the floor around the outskirts of the room.
Malaysian wedding ceremonies are very different from wedding ceremonies in the United States. The whole process is completed while sitting on the floor, the bride and groom on separate white daises. The imam leads the ceremony, directing his words toward to the groom. The father of the bride is seated next to the groom and the imam, together the three men forming a triangle. The imam takes his time advising the groom on the do’s and don’t’s of married life. He reminds him of the rights of his new wife and prepares him for this new adventure.

The groom and the father-of-the-bride partake in a long-lasting handshake symbolizing the handing over of the bride from her father’s care to the care of her new husband. The imam brings out the solemnization papers which the groom proceeds to sign, taking a quick glance at his glowing bride. Prayers are said and more advice is given before the newly-wed couple stands and exits the room to go pray for a successful marriage.


The ceremony


The symbolic handshake


Prayer

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Upon their return, the bride and groom, smiling from ear to ear, even visible through the burka Shida wears, sit on the pelamin and are immediately bombarded with cameras. Instead of a wedding ring, the bride is given a gold bracelet which the groom clasps on her wrist to the sounds of many camera shutters. It is such a joyful atmosphere; everyone is happy and enjoying themselves. Many photos are taken.


The groom placing the bracelet on the bride's wrist


The happy, young couple


Bride's family photo, plus me

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With the formal ceremony over, the guests help themselves to the buffet-style food. Malay weddings are not structured so that everyone must attend the above mentioned ceremony. Rather, the guests are able to come and go as they please, and it is very common that guests do not come for the solemnization but just for the food and to pay their respects to the couple. Our ceremony started at 10:00am and guests kept arriving until well after the stated end time of 3:00pm.


Wedding lunch buffet


Hasnul (left) and her sister giving the wedding gifts to the guests and children

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The next day, the groom’s family hosted the reception. Malay weddings have two parts – the official ceremony is hosted by the bride’s family in her hometown, and then a smaller function with the groom’s family is conducted in his hometown. Since, in this case, the bride and groom were both from Kuala Lumpur, they were able to have the two events on back-to-back days. It is common, however, for the second ceremony to be held a week or two after the solemnization. Another delicious meal surrounded by friends and family, more photos of the happy couple and their families, and additional door gifts were taken.


Cutting the cake


All smiles


Sister love

It was a glorious wedding for a gorgeous couple. I am honored to have been a part of it and to have been accepted as an honorary member of the bride’s family for the weekend. May Shida and Hilmi have a long, successful, and harmonious marriage.


Me and Hasnul

Ramadhan: A Journey in Photos

The Holy Month of Ramadhan was upon us before I knew it. I had many incredible, eye-opening, memorable experiences during this month. I learned so much about myself, about the Malaysian culture, and about the Islamic faith. I could have taken one step at a time or hopped right in. I jumped. Here are some of my stories:

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What better time than during Ramadhan, the Islamic Holy Month, to try on a hijab?



And get your photo taken with so many people!


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In solidarity with my teachers and students, I fasted for the entire month. While it wasn't too difficult not eating from 6am to 7:30pm, not drinking water in the Malaysian heat was. But I managed. And having the opportunity to break my fast with friends and families made everything worth it. I even got to teach how to cook Mexican food!



And then there was the evening of the school Iftar. All the teachers and some students returned to school for prayers and a joint breaking of our fasts. We sat on the floor in the surau, the Muslim worship hall on the school grounds, and ate delicious foods prepared by one of our own!



I wore a hijab again as a sign of respect for entering the place of worship.



Here we are lining up for our food. The women ate on one side of the surau, and the men ate on the other.



So it wasn't until after the meal when I was able to spend time with my male students. They are such fun, energetic individuals!


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There are many special foods during Ramadhan and Hari Raya at the end of the month. I taught some of my students how to bake Cream Cheese Cookies. It took us a while to get them right, but we did, and they were delicious!



And then we broke our fast together with dinner from the Bazaar Ramadhan!


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The Bazaar Ramadhan was a food market that stood in our town square for the duration of the month. Every day from 2pm until 7pm, there were many stalls selling various foods. I frequented the Bazaar quite often as I knew several of the people working and always saw some of my students.



One of the food stalls and the lovely ladies working it. They are selling traditional Malaysian foods.



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In addition to, or instead of, working at the Bazaar, many families will sell additional items during Ramadhan in order to have a some extra money for the Duit Raya, small money packets that are given to the children/unmarried individuals. Here I am with one of my teachers and her son selling periok kera.



These are periok kera, literally translating to "monkey pots." They are picked from the forests, washed, and filled with glutinous rice and coconut milk before being steamed.



After a long day of selling periok kera, we decided to go to the local waterfall to relax in the river. We had breath-holding competitions, splashing fights, and accepted the challenge to catch little fish with our bare hands. It was a successful mission.



Back at the house, we went to the garden to pick fruits. Here I am trying to get mangosteens from the tree using a long bamboo pole that is split at the end.



Soon enough, it was time to break our fast. I had the privilege of serving the rice, and then together we all enjoyed the food.



There are always so many options. And of course, everyone tells me not to be shy and to take more and more and more.



Perhaps the time most enjoyed by children is in the evenings when they can play with fireworks. There were sparklers, fireworks that stayed on the ground, and, if you're lucky, fireworks that shoot into the air


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Another night, I was invited to a students' house. She has 9 siblings, and two of them also attend my school. These are the three siblings who go to my school.



The night before I came, their extended family from Indonesia had arrived. There were nearly 30 people in the house. What a lovely, and occasionally loud, environment! We ate together on the floor, family-style.



And again, there were fireworks!



And they were clearly enjoyed.



Back inside the house, my students' mother and grandmother had returned from prayers. I was invited to try on the telkung, the traditional covering worn by women for prayers. Naturally, the occasion wasn't complete without some photos.



At the end of the night, the mother wanted to give me a gift. This is a painting done by her second oldest daughter and it's absolutely stunning.



In the morning, I met the family again at their durian farm. DUring the night durians fall from the trees and must then be collected.



Of all the durians we collected, I was only able to find one. I guess my eye is not trained to find durians yet! (My nose is however!)



There were also rubber trees in the forest. Some people were collecting the latex while we were there.


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ON the last night of Ramadhan, I joined one of my teachers and her family to prepare their Iftar meal. I learned how to cook rendang, a spicy, dry meat curry, and periok kera.



Here we are filling the periok kera with rice and coconut milk!



Time to eat. Her girls were adorable and quickly warmed up to me. I helped the oldest with her Englist homework before the night was finished.


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That same night, instead of going straight home, I decided to ride through the Malay neighborhoods where I know many of my students live. The next three hours were spent joking and laughing...



eating at one of the boy's house (more traditional foods)...



taking pictures, and playing guitar. I had to cut my night short at 1am as I had a train to catch at 3am and still needed to finish packing.


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Spending Ramadhan in Malaysia was incredible. It was a great opportunity to learn more about the Islamic faith, develop stronger relationships with my students and teachers, and become more fully engaged in the local culture. I say let's do it again!